The Herald, Sharon, Pa.

Food

January 6, 2009

Have a happy, whole-grain new year

A new year brings out our best intentions, especially when it comes to our eating habits: We are going to avoid sugar, eschew salt, forgo caffeine, drink more water and less alcohol, reduce our fat intake, increase our vegetable quotient, and lose weight. It’s a list that has “Deprivation” written all over it, with a capital “D.” But here is a small step that requires not one iota of the dreaded “D,” and can indeed lead to better health: Eating whole grains.

Lorna Sass, writing in “Whole Grains for Busy People” (Clarkson Potter, 2009), says that studies over the past decade indicate that people who eat at least three servings of whole grains per day reduce their risk of stroke, obesity, heart disease and some cancers.

Why did people stop eating whole grains in the first place? According to Sass, removing the fiber-rich bran layer and the essential-fatty-acids-rich “germ” of the grain -- leaving only the starchy endosperm -- results in grains and flours that last indefinitely and cook quickly. This is, as Sass notes, “profitable for suppliers and convenient for us.” Unfortunately, scientists now believe that it is critical to eat all three parts of the grain together.

If you want to take that first small step toward a better diet, consider Sass’ short how-to guide. For example, buy bread that is at least 50 percent whole grain, and once you and your family are used to it, transition to 100 percent. Do the same with pasta. Buy whole-wheat pita bread (you won’t know the difference). Switch to a whole-grain breakfast cereal, or mix some in with your current favorite until you can make a clean break. Choose corn or whole-wheat tortillas over flour ones. Eat whole-grain crackers. If you need recipes, look to Sass’ book as your guide.

The trick for consumers is to not be fooled by labeling. If you want to buy whole-grain products, read the label and make sure that “whole” is the first word listed: as in “whole wheat.” Don’t be fooled by such claims as “Made With Whole Grain” (sure, but how much?), “100% Wheat” (could be refined), “Multigrain” (are any of them whole?) and “Stone Ground” (refers to the production method, not the content). Don’t be fooled by a dark color, which can be a result of molasses or food coloring.

Eating whole grains is not exactly a hardship. Once you make the change, you will probably find yourself craving brown rice when someone serves you white, or missing the appeal of your hearty whole-wheat bread when a sandwich with white bread is proffered. And you won’t feel deprived, except, of course, when it comes to alcohol, sugar, fat and salt. Happy New Year!



SQUASH BISQUE WITH CURRIED POPCORN

For the soup:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon mild Madras curry powder

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/8 teaspoon granulated garlic

pinch ground cinnamon

pinch cayenne pepper (optional)

1 quart low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth

salt

2/3 cup old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick cooking or instant)

2 (12-ounce) packages frozen cooked winter squash

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

grated zest of 1 lime (optional)



For the curried popcorn topping:

4 cups popped popcorn

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil

2 teaspoons mild Madras curry powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground fennel

salt



Make the soup: Over medium heat, melt the butter in a heavy, six-quart pot. While the butter is melting, stir in the curry powder, cumin, garlic, cinnamon and cayenne (if using). Stir for at least 30 seconds. Add the broth and salt to taste. Stir in the oats. Place the frozen squash on top. Cover, increase heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat slightly, cover, and continue cooking until you can break up the squash with a fork, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir well, cover, and continue cooking over medium heat until the oats are soft or partially dissolved, about 5 more minutes.

While the soup is cooking, prepare the popcorn topping: Place the popcorn in a large bowl. Put the butter (or oil) in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, and set over medium heat. While the butter is melting, stir in the curry powder, cumin, fennel and salt. Cook for 1 minute, stirring.

Drizzle the seasoned butter over the popcorn while stirring. Toss the popcorn, and rub with your fingers so it becomes evenly coated.

When the soup is done, stir in cilantro and some lime zest, if needed, to brighten the flavors. Adjust the seasonings. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish each portion with about 1/3 cup of popcorn. Pass the remaining popcorn at the table.

Variations: Omit the popcorn but make the seasoned butter, and stir it into the soup. Set a dollop of plain yogurt in the center of each portion, and garnish with more freshly chopped cilantro.

Yield: 4 servings

Recipe from “Whole Grains for Busy People” by Lorna Sass (Clarkson Potter, 2009)



HOMINY AND KIDNEY-BEAN CHILI

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, peeled and chopped

2 teaspoons chili powder, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic

1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon dried oregano

2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes with green chilies (preferably fire-roasted), with juices

1 (15-ounce) can white or yellow hominy, drained and rinsed

1 (15-ounce) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed

2 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch chunks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup diced roasted red bell pepper, preferably fire-roasted (available in supermarkets)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for serving

lime wedges, for serving

1/2 cup sharp grated Cheddar cheese, for serving

In a heavy four-quart Dutch oven, heat the oil. Stir in the onion, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until it begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Lower the heat to medium. Stir in the chili powder, cumin, garlic and cinnamon and cook for another minute. Stir in the oregano. Add the tomatoes, hominy, beans and zucchini. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and additional chili powder, if needed. Bring to a boil.

Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until the zucchini is tender but still firm, 8 to 12 minutes.

Stir in the roasted red pepper and cilantro just before serving. Ladle into bowl, and pass the lime wedges and grated cheese.

Variations: If you are not partial to spicy food, used diced tomatoes without chili peppers. Conversely, if you like spice, add some chipotle in adobo sauce. (Chipotles are smoked jalapenos, often found packed in savory adobo sauce in cans in the Mexican aisle of most supermarkets. Add carefully; they are hot!). For a meaty chili, brown 1/2 to 1 pound ground pork in the oil, then stir in the onion and proceed as directed.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Recipe from “Whole Grains for Busy People” by Lorna Sass (Clarkson Potter, 2009)



Marialisa Calta is the author of “Barbarians at the Plate: Taming and Feeding the American Family” (Perigee, 2005). For more information, go to www.marialisacalta.com

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